2 weeks The complex tastes of well-made laksa Inquirer
  I am fond of laksa, especially the spiced orange-fire, coconut milk-based kind. What makes laksa special is its spice paste, made by pounding and blending together the perfect amounts of ginger, garlic, chilies, turmeric, dried shrimp, shrimp paste and lemongrass. Spice paste recipes vary from one cook to another, but in Manila, it's Tao Yuan's Singaporean chef Ah Long's rendition that brings me the greatest pleasure (tel. 0917-6383911, @taoyuan on Instagram). Tao Yuan's laksa is a perfect balance. From a spoonful of broth, the palate experiences ecstasy. It is a complex structure of tastes, a hint of this and ... more